DUT FASHION 2009

Great to see a more industry-aligned approach in the Department. (Review by Clinton Marius)

The Durban University of Technology’s (DUT) Department of Fashion and Textiles opened their presentation of the top 20 final year student collections with a combined display entitled The Shape and songs of my skin 2009: Lost in Transparency. Plastic was cleverly, if impractically, used to show off the sewing skills of the fashion students, while bold and interesting prints on the plastic garments were an opportunity for the textile designers to strut their stuff.

With solid production (Tiffany Prior, Ice Model Management), slick choreography (Sheugnet Gifford, Ice Model Management) devoid of all the ‘tricksy-ness’ that has come to be associated with fashion shows. It’s nice to see models who show off the clothing, rather than themselves for a change, and also to see no shuffling on ramp that makes them look as if they’re so bored they would rather be a million miles away. Congratulations also for expert set, lighting and sound production (Black Coffee Productions). The department proved once again that it is a breeding ground for the cream of South African fashion and textile designers.

Dale McCarthy walked away with the evening’s top honours and an unprecedented win in two categories, Best Technical Range and Best on Show, for his whimsical and feminine range that featured stunning corsets, dashes of pink, and soft, flowing design.

Michaella Goss took first prize in the Best Men’s Wear Range category with a collection drawing on the 80’s penchant for military jackets with shoulder pads, in greys, blacks and greens. For two minutes it seemed as if the 80’s had never ended, and that Prince, Klaus Nomi, Michael Jackson and Bauhaus were rocking again. I was only sorry to see so little menswear this year.

The Best Casual Wear category was won by Skye Pengelley with a range that conjured lazy afternoons in Africa. Detailed, and featuring exquisite crochet-work, the collection stood out with its printed and dyed fabric and beaded rosettes.

Leona S Gwamanda came out tops in the Most Innovative Range category for a range featuring gingham and plaid, with red and grey as signature colours, while Bianca Warren walked away with the prize for the Most Commercially Viable Range.

Other ranges that stood out included: Dwayne Govender’s play on stripes in a gorgeous collection of men’s streetwear. Playful and interesting, the highlights of his range were the baggy jeans. Farah Diba Essack’s edgy riot of candy colours and greys, that would make John Galliano sit up and take notice, also turned heads. Beautiful waistcoats, covered buttons, pleats and piping in greys, winter-white and sand made for an impressive range from Thola D Qumbisa. Refiloe Moathse also stood out with an off-beat and whacky winter collection featuring oversized buttons and beautiful burnt colours. Special mention should also be made of Jane Wolff’s range of flower-child inspired clothing with pop art and bold lines. Lastly, Zanele Ncane’s playful patchwork range struck me as the collection most infused with African influences.

In the past my criticism of these student collections was that they were more often than not preposterous - and aimed to astound, rather than impress, with many of the garments on show being completely impractical and out of touch with the market. So it was great to see that there is a more industry-aligned approach in the Department, with most of the designers on show now in the position of being able to slide effortlessly into the fashion business.

Overall, the standard was extremely high and the clothing was mostly directional. These are tomorrow’s fashion leaders ... and the future looks bright. And since these are the youngsters who have their finger on the pulse of what’s hip and happening, it’s safe to say that the fashion trends we can look forward to are jackets, particularly boleros, very short skirts and dresses, and lots of blacks, neutrals and greys. – Clinton Marius