artSMart Editor Caroline Smart reports from the National Arts Festival in Grahamstown.
This is my 26th consecutive year of covering the National Arts Festival. Tired as I am after arriving from a very long journey, I can’t help being drawn into the festival spirit and joining other festival-goers in honouring South Africa’s performing talent.
Last year I suffered a horrendous and very stressful journey coming back home from the Festival through the Transkei where EC on the number-plate seems to stand for “Extraordinarily Clueless” when it comes to the appalling standard of driving in that part of the world. No observance of unbroken white lines, passing in front of oncoming traffic and let’s not forget passing on blind rises! How hundreds of people aren’t killed on a daily basis is beyond me.
So this year, I was all prepared to fly down and rent a car when Keith Millar, long-time colleague at the SABC from my days in Springbok Radio, said that he’d always wanted to go to the Festival but had never had time before. Now retired from being Head of RBF in Durban, he had the time but wasn’t sure how to go about it.
For the last three years, I have been pushing for a stronger KZN presence at the Festival and this was just the kind of mission I enjoy doing. We decided to drive together and he would review some of the classic music concerts. Hence I got to have my car in Grahamstown rather than a rented one, have great companionship on the way down ... and artSMart has gained a reviewer!
So, now that I had a passenger who could help me follow a new route, I decided to take the advice of others who had gone the Matatiele route before. I knew that it would be longer but anything was better than being stressed and placed in danger every fifteen minutes or so.
It was a glorious and relaxing drive with some superb views, especially masses of snow on the Southern Drakensberg. I can recommend it to anyone.
Only two problems for us. We missed an important turn off and ended up taking a parallel road later on. The trouble with this was that, while it was also scenic the quality of the road was dreadful with potholes virtually every step of the way. This slowed us down considerably. The best part was seeing a group of wild horses canter past, out for an afternoon stroll.
While the first problem was of our own doing, the second problem is unavoidable. There are serious roadworks between King Williamstown and Grahamstown. At one point the traffic is halted for at least 20-30 minutes as only single-lane traffic may pass through the intervening section. We were travelling in the dark by this stage so it was even more stressful.
We arrived late into the evening to find the city of Grahamstown all dressed up for Festival. Every available space that can carry a poster, does and if you take in the subjects and disciplines of the various posters immediately surrounding it, this will give you the merest glimpse of the size and diversity of this year’s event.
So, for those wanting to try the Matatiele route –here’s the process: Durban – Port Shepstone – Kokstad – Cedarville – Matatiele – Mount Fletcher – Maclear - Ugie - Elliot. At Elliot follow signs to Cala but at Qiba, turn left towards Ncongo. At Ncongo follow signs to Tsomo then carry on to the N2. If you are planning on filling up at the Kei Road comfort station, they only have diesel at the moment. Once you are up the hill, you will shortly turn off to the right to Komga where you will be able to get petrol.
A couple of warnings: Between Durban and Kokstad they have relaid the road and there are lots of small stones, the kind that can nick or smash your car windows. After having a window smashed by a stone earlier this year, I carry a roll of heavy clear plastic and a roll of packaging tape in my boot!
Travelling via Matatiele, there are potholes just like they are on the Mthatha route but this time at least you can keep your eye on the road itself to avoid them without having to check the whereabouts of lunatic drivers.
There are also some vicious speed bumps entering all the towns – particularly Ugie – and they are not always marked. Often the paint has worn off altogether. In fact until you get up close, some look like zebra crossings. By the time you see the height of them, it’s too late and half of the luggage has flown about the interior of the car!
Still suffering from acute laryngitis after a bout of flu so not all that communicative at the moment – which is almost impossible at Festival! However, I am sure that after a good night’s sleep I shall regain some form of sound tomorrow! Goodnight from Grahamstown – Caroline Smart